Lanquin and Semuc Champey- Guatemala

As you may remember, from time to time our plans change, based on recommendations of fellow travelers. We had no intention of travelling to the remote Semuc Champey, but have been told over and over that it is an absolute must if we are in Guatemala. We knew the ride wouldn't be pretty but we decided to brave it anyway and away we went.

Try 13 1/2 hours!

With our tablets charged we were ready....after 3 hours stuck in traffic we knew this would be a long ride...my friend Candy asked me what it was really like to travel with the kids...honestly, I would love  to tell you we played licence plate games and other various car ride activities , did some homework, and just talked..but really we watched downloaded Netflix almost the entire way. We were all crammed into a shuttle like sardines, two by two, I sat with Johnny and the girls sat together, if we did not have tablets I have no idea how the ride would have went...but as it was,except for leg cramps here and there, and Anneka occasionally feeling sick, the ride was fine...(and Johnny and I crushed a whole series). We arrived in Lanquin (a small town about 1/2 hour away from Semuc Champey). 13 1/2 hours after we left Atitlan. We had booked a very cheap,( kind of gross and cool all at the same time) hostel for two nights so we could enjoy Lanquin the next day, (we heard there is a cool bat cave and that you can go river tubing).

beautiful views from our gross/cool hostel El Muro

Market day in Lanquin, very authentic, we were the only tourists there

The tiny town of Lanquin

The next morning we woke up walked the small little town, checked out the market, got some fried chicken (Central Americans LOVE their fried chicken!) and booked a tube ride through our hostel, after a little debate about pricing we were off. Tubing was fun, would have been much nicer if the sun was out, as it was overcast the kids were a little cold but we made the best of it...

At about 4 we took a tuk tuk to that bat cave. As we were walking we met a local who offered to take us through the cave (for a small fee of course) we took him up on his offer and went inside...this cave was so impressive, huge cavernous areas 50 ft high in some places. The most amazing site was at around 5:30 we walked to the entrance and just sat still...thousands of bats were leaving the cave at dusk. we just sat there mesmerized as they swooped passed our heads, it was pretty crazy to see. 

the entrance of the bat cave- me with our guide

This is actually inside, pretty crazy how big the cave was

That was it for Lanquin, not a heck of a lot to see see or do, but a gateway to Semuc Champey, if I had to do it again, we probably would not have stopped in Lanquin I would have just kept going...as Semuc is absolutely incredible. We stayed at an awesome hostel, (up there in the top 5 nicest places we have stayed). The tour was at 9:30 in the morning, so we really had no time to explore, Greengo's hostel sent a big 4x4 truck (looks like it was from the set of Jurassic park) to pick us up from El Muro. We then traveled 40 minutes up a windy bumpy dirt road to Greengo's where we literally dumped our stuff, and joined the tour. 

Our ride to Greengo's Hostel

Our beautiful hostel for the next couple of days...We stayed in the light blue building at the back overlooking the river

The dining area where we enjoyed the BEST MEALS so far on this whole trip...seriously amazing food.

Our full day tour included a visit toi the Ka'Ba Caves, river tubing, a hike up to the overlook El Matador, lunch, a short hike to a spectacular water fall and Semuc Champey 

Now by this time we were old pros in caving...girls and I were fully confident this would be an amazing experience. We managed to get a life jacket for Liv and Anneka, (not mandatory, we insisted- crazy!), were handed a candle each, and proceeded to follow our group into this very dark, very wet looking cave...the further in we went the deeper the water was, before you knew it, we were waste deep with nothing to see but the person in front of you and the occasional stalactites sticking out.  They had ropes above you in the deeper sections, and our guide was great with the girls helping them through he more difficult parts. We had to climb up a latter through a water fall, slide through a hole to a pool of water and we all were given the opportunity to climb up 4 m high rope ladder to jump of a rocky ledge into pools. (Anneka and I passed, but Johnny and Liv braved the jump). All this was done by candle lite. Unfortunately I do not have any great photos but have a look google , search caves in Semuc Champey and you can check out all the images to have a better idea. 

For anyone who has read my Facebook, you will know how incredibly proud I was of the girls. They both dug deep, faced fears and came out as warriors

Our guide paited our faces with the soot from the caves, in Mayan Fashion

After the caves we went for another tube ride (different river then the day before), walked to a beautiful water fall then stopped for the most amazing lunch. 

Semuc Champey means "Where the river hides under the stones" is a natural monument in Guatemala, it consists of a natural 300 m limestone bridge, under which passes the Cahabón River. Atop the bridge is a series of stepped, turquoise pools, perfect temperature to swim in, jumping from pool to pool. the waterfall was at the bottom of the pools. 

from the lookout...it was a looooooong way up! 

with Mia a little girl we met that spent the day with us

As usual, pictures do not do this place justice, it really is a natural wonder, just so lovely. We went back the next day to just to swim and take it all in. In the afternoon we headed back to Greengo's where we met some awesome travelers and hung out all evening playing beach volleyball and eating the MOST amazing food. This place was pure bliss, we could have easily stayed another couple of days. 

one of the pools

The water really was turquoise, looked different from every angle

Greengos

Lake Atitlan- Pana and San Pedro

After we left Monterrico we headed to Lake Atitlan, we had to go through Antigua again (this was just the quickest route). We knew we would be getting to the lake rather late so we decided to stay in the main town of Pana for one night, (the boat across to San Padro stops running at 7pm). We had heard Pana was not that great to stay in, very touristy and busy...when we got there we actually liked it. Very narrow streets with stalls lining up and down. We stayed in a basic hotel, walked around, got dinner then went to sleep...

A street in Pana

Downtown Pana

on our way to the boat launch

The beautiful view from Pana dock

The boats to ferry to to the places around the lake

The next morning we caught the boat to San Pedro ( about 20 minutes across the lake). There are many places to stay around Lake Atitlan, we decided on San Pedro as it seemed to suit us the most. Many head to San Marcos, we thought it was a little to Yogi for us (very Zen, maybe great for couples or people wanted to meditate...so not us). From the moment we arrived in San Pedro, we really liked it. Such a beautiful setting, most establishments overlook the water and the rest of the town is built on a hill behind it... Lots of hustle and bustle, but we have realised we all kind of like that...We were staying in a hotel called Hotel Delfine, very nice, brand new and modern amenities, but kind of boring, just a nice place to sleep really...good thing there was so much to do around the town.

taking the Tuk Tuk to our hotel- pretty tight sqeeze

Arriving at San Padro dock

The next few days were spent exploring San Pedro and surrounding towns. We visited the small town of San Marcos and went to the Nature Reserve. This is the only place where you really feel comfortable swimming as the rest of the areas the water looked a little cloudy., (not too appealing looking to have a swim). They have a jumping platform at the end of the hike and the girls and Johnny took advantage of the big jump.

San Pedros Look out

streets of San Marcos

Jumping Platform from the nature reserve

view from the nature resrve on San Marcos

We visited the neighbouring town of San Juan, where there are many women weavers giving free demonstrations on how they take the raw cotton and turn it into the beautiful blankets and textiles Guatemala is known for. We bought a beautiful purse for Liv and two ponchos for Anneka and I.

It really is an amazing place, I can understand why people stay for much longer. I wish we would have done better planning and stayed to attend language school. One thing I have not mentioned is how awful we all feel to not know any Spanish. On the advice of our friends Nick and Kath, we really meant to take classes before our trip, time got the better of us and with Johnny working so much before we left there just wasn't any time. I feel somewhat arrogant coming to Central America and barely getting by. We all still try our best and use Spanish wherever and as much as we can. word of advice- if you are coming to Central America, plan to stay somewhere for a few weeks and take classes, great way to get to know the culture of a place as well as it will be very helpful throughout your travels. 

Baby Sea Turtles! Monterricco, Guatemala

We never intended to make the trip to the pacific side of Guatemala. I knew my friends Nick and Kath loved this portion of their trip, but we did not think we had enough time so we were going to skip it. After talking to fellow travelers who had just come from there, they convinced us that it totally was worth the trip even if you were only going for a couple of days.  On their advice we stayed at an a awesome hostel/hotel called El Delfin....super cheap at only $35US/night, rooms were very simple, but the property was awesome, right on the beach with a sprawling restaurant that went on to the sand, hammocks a huge pool, volleyball net and a bar...all you need for a relaxing little holiday

     

The girls playing volleyball with Cas

As soon as we arrived we went straight to the pool and ordered an obligatory drink to cheers our new destination (a "thing" Johnny and I started doing a while back- every time we arrive at a new spot we order a drink and have a cheers).

Straight away we all LOVED Monterrico- not much of a town, seriously the entire place is two crossroads the main drag and the a long dirt road. But there was something very relaxing about it.
 Liv said "I know we are going to like it here".  I said, "Why?".
She said, "because its a beach town mom, and I love all beach towns".

ahhhh that's my girl!

Down to business, why we really made the 2 and half hour side trip from Antigua??? For the baby turtles of course! I have been trying since Costa Rica to see either a turtle laying its eggs or to help baby turtles be released back to the sea. For whatever reason timing was never on our side, but I had been told by the Amazing Grace who ran Hotel Delfin that the turtle hatchery in Monterrico releases baby turtles nightly, for  basically $1 a turtle!  That afternoon we walked over to Tortuga Monte Rico, the turtle hatchery about a 5 minute walk down the dirt road,

The walk on the way to the turtle Hatchery notice all the stray dogs :(

When we arrived we took a small tour of the sanctuary, they had several areas with crocs, caymans and iguanas. 

One of the biggest crocs at the sanctuary. 

We then paid for the baby turtles and they handed us a small bowl (basically the bottom of a pop bottle) we all walked down the beach where there was a roped off section. As we stood there a man came over with a huge basket full of baby turtles that had just hatched. He then put 3 in each of our bowls and we counted down just as the sun was setting... it really was magical!!!!!

look closely you can see all the turtles in the baskets

getting ready to put them down

Just as we released them

we just counted down and gently put them in the sand

We all sat and cheered the turtles on as they scurried to the sea...there were a few that were not moving very fast, (actually they were just kind of sitting there, we kind of thought they may be not doing too well). The man then asked the girls if they would like to help them out so they got to pick up the babies and take them directly to the water, it was pretty awesome. 

We met an amazing couple travelling for 6 months on their honeymoon (hi to Anna and Cas!)

we spent the next two days literally hanging out at the pool, in great company enjoying the amazing weather and good vibes. We went back the second night to release the bay turtles again and it was just as special. 

Enjoying the sunset our last night

Miles of black sand beach

Our new friends from Wales- Anna and Cas-we hope to see you again!

Me and Grace, a half Canadian (we will forgive her for her other half), running the Delfin in Monterrico

While travelling to Monterrico was about 5 hours out of the way, it was so worth it, I am so happy we made the trip and would happily come back here. On our last morning we headed from Monterrico in our own little shuttle to Antigua and then straight through to Lake Atitlan, (where I am right now (yay I am finally caught up!). 

so many beautiful places in Guatemala!